Chasing Lifers: The Falcated One

I am the type of birder that seldom chases specific birds. When I say chase, I mean a birder that repeatedly goes back to one location to get a good shot of a particular bird or goes to different sites in pursuit of one or two species.  For instance, I know of one birder that kept going back to LMEP in order to get a good shot of the Indigo-banded Kingfisher because it was his spark bird.  As for me, the first one that comes to mind is the Narcissus Flycatcher which I "chased" in four locations in 2016.  

Another bird that I somewhat chased is the Falcated Wren Babbler, (Ptilocichla falcata), also called the Falcated Ground Babbler, it is endemic to Palawan.  Being a forest ground dweller, it is a difficult subject to photograph. It skulks in the forest floor and is very shy and skittish. Making it more difficult for me is the fact that it is only seen in mainland Palawan.   During the 3rd PPUR Bird Race in November 2017, several beautiful photos appeared and I learned that most of them were photographed with a certain Randy Tibur as guide.  Randy, is a protege of Atty. Carlo Benitez Gomez, one of Palawan's foremost bird photographers and a WBPP founding member.  So I made a mental note to go for the Falcated the next time I am in Puerto Princessa.

The First Attempt

The first chance I got was in June 2018.  I went to Puerto Princessa because CATE, our tourism association in Coron, received the Governor's Award for Tourism Development.  Though the awarding was in the evening of June 20, I took the first flight out of Manila so I could bird the whole day.  Unfortunately, I woke up late and missed my flight.  I rushed to NAIA, took the next available flight and got landed at Puerto Princessa City at almost eleven o'clock in the morning.  We got to the birding site noon.  I quickly set up my camera and we waited.  Soon Randy whispered that the bird was approaching.  I could see movement in the grass and bushes on my left, then a blur of brown briefly perched on a tree trunk, I pressed the shutter and all I got was this:

We transferred to two more spots but the results were the same.  The bird was around but it would not perch in the open.  Soon, it was time to leave.  Randy opined that next time, we should use a hide.  The following day, my flight was still after lunch so I decided to bird in the morning.  But since there site of the Babbler was quite far, I opted to go for one or hopefully two photo lifers. (To my non-birder friends, a lifer is the first time we see a particular bird.  A photo-lifer is a term coined by the Filipino bird photographers to refer to the first time we get a good photo of a particular species).  For this trip, I decided to try and get a better shot of the Palawan Flycatcher and if time permits, the Pale Spiderhunter.  I have previously seen and photographed both birds but wanted to improve on my shots. 

Randy brought me to a new site of Atty Carlo for the Palawan Flycatcher.  And the site did not disappoint.  Sharing some of the photos I was able to take in this site.  

Palawan Flycatcher

After getting enough shots of the Palawan Flycatcher, we proceeded to the Crocodile Farm for the Spiderhunter.  Randy brought me to a clump of flowers, Heliconias, if am not mistaken.  After about twenty minutes, our second target for the day arrived and gave me enough good looks.  

Pale Spiderhunter

After about an hour at the Crocodile Farm, it was time for me to go to the airport to catch my flight. 

Second Encounter

My second chance to shoot the Falcated Wren Babbler came a month and a half later.  I had a three day business trip at Puerto Princessa so again I took an early flight, (which I did not miss!).  We had to do a bit more walking this time.  But I was more prepared because I had a Madrigal hide with me. It is a photography hide designed by our friend and fellow birder Prof Bert Madrigal of UP.   This is how I look under a Madrigal hide:  

Me, while using a Madrigal hide, photo taken at Infanta, Quezon

And just like our previous attempt, the bird was skulking around the area and even made a very brief appearance in front of me.  Unfortunately, these are the only shots I managed

After some time at this site, we moved to two other sites but the results were the same.  In the last site, we had to run back to the van because the clouds suddenly turned so dark and we did not want to be caught in a downpour while inside the forest.  Along the way, we saw two birds - Great Slaty Woodpecker and Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, which is a lifer.  Here are docu shots of these two.

Great Slaty Woodpecker

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, a lifer

So for the second time, we dipped on the Falcated Wren Babbler.  To make matters worse, when I got back to my hotel, I found a Leech on my lower leg.  

Third Attempt

I was beginning to give up hope of being able to photograph this bird in 2018. But a sudden business trip in late November gave me a chance.  Before leaving for Puerto Princessa, I asked my host, DOST Palawan for the schedule of meetings and presentations. After seeing the schedule, I was not sure if I was going to have time because of the number of meetings. But, I brought my gear anyway - camera, lens, tripod, folding stool and madrigal hide.  Fortunately, we managed to finish all commitments by evening of the second day and since my flight was still at three in the afternoon (of day 3), it meant I had half a day to make another attempt.  We were supposed to leave at three thirty in the morning because we were going all the way to Sabang.  I woke up at two am, got dressed, but dozed off!  And woke up at five!!!  We reached our first site after one and half hours (almost at Sabang).  But while Randy could hear the target bird, it did not show itself.  I had a couple of consolations though.

Palawan Hornbill

Asian Fairy Bluebird

We stopped at two more sites but the bird was a nowhere to be found.  On our final stop,we walked for about twenty minutes then we had to cross the river.  Finally, we got to a spot that Randy felt good about.  I set up my tripod and camera, sat on my stool and covered myself with the hide.  After approximately fifteen minutes, Randy, who was crouching somewhere behind me whispered that the bird was approaching.  And then it was there, perched in the open.  Presenting, the Falcated Wren Babbler of Palawan... 

Falcated Wren Babbler

As we say in Pilipino, sulit ang lahat ng pagod!  

This is probably my last lifer for the year.  Thank you 2018 for the many lifers you gave me.  

Chasing Lifers: The Ursula Expedition

Even before I became a birder, Ursula Island was already on my bucket list of places to visit.  So when I became one in 2012, Ursula moved up near the top of the list.  That it took several attempts and six years before it came true only underscores how difficult it is to visit this island.  

Ursula Island is located in Southern Palawan, approximately 24.2 kms East South East from the Rio Tuba wharf.  Rio Tuba is a mining community in southern Palawan, and a part of the municipality of Bataraza. It is the southernmost municipality of mainland Palawan and its town center is 272.5 kms from Puerto Princessa City.  Rio Tuba is another 25 kms from the Poblacion.  

Ursula Island as shown in Google Maps

On this trip, Luis, my elder son was going with me.  Our journey began at dawn of April 7 for we had to be at the airport by 4am for our 6am flight to Puerto Princessa city. We landed at PPC airport a little after 7am and was met by Rommel Cruz of Wild Expeditions Palawan, the tour organizer.  After picking up supplies and provisions at the WEP office, and picking up the rest of the expedition members, we were off.  Our party consisted of ten (10) guests, plus Rommel and the driver.  Another van contained another group of Palaweno campers and outdoor enthusiasts.

For geography nuts like me, here is a map of Palawan.

Two hours later, after passing through southern Puerto Princessa and the town of Aborlan, we made a stopover at the town of Narra where the expedition team bought fresh food ingredients to be cooked in the island.  It was also an opportunity for brunch, where else, but in Jollibee!

Langhap Sarap!

Luis, brought some school work along.  Doing a paper while we were at Jolibee Narra.

Narra, officially the Municipality of Narra, is a 1st class municipality in the province of Palawan, Philippines. Besides spelling out the local name for the Pterocarpus indicus—the Philippines' national tree—it is an acronym for National Resettlement Rehabilitation Administration. This program, established on June 18, 1954, resettled landless people from Luzon to Palawan. On June 21, 1969, the Municipality of Narra was created by virtue of Republic Act No. 5642 signed by President Ferdinand Marcos.[4]

Having a title as "The Rice Granary of Palawan" Municipality of Narra is the main rice producer of the Province of Palawan. (source: wikipedia)

After about thirty minutes in Narra, we set off again and after another two hours, we made a brief stop at Brooke's Point, arguably, the most progressive town of Southern Palawan and the most likely capital of the soon to be Palawan del Sur province. Along the way we passed through the town of Sofronio Espanola.  

Brooke's Point, officially the Municipality of Brooke's Point, is a 1st class municipality in the province of Palawan, Philippines.

It is named after Sir James Brooke.

This is where the original home of the biggest pearl in the world, known as the Pearl of Lao Tzu or the Pearl of Allah, found in its waters on May 7, 1934. (source: wikipedia)

Some sights in Brooke's Point:

A practical way to keep the bathroom clean...

After stretching our limbs and a quick trip to the bathroom, and a cigarette for some, we were off again.  Next stop Bataraza.   

Bataraza, officially the Municipality of Bataraza, is a 1st class municipality in the province of Palawan, Philippines.

The municipality was named after Datu Bataraza Narrazid, a locally influential Muslim chieftain and father of the town's first mayor and former mayor of Brooke's Point, then Datu Sapiodin Narrazid. Bataraza was part of the municipality of Brooke's Point until 1964 by the virtue of Philippine RA 3425.[4]

Main industries of Bataraza includes farming, fishing, and nickel mining and processing. (source: wikipedia).

We reached Bataraza after another hour and a half on the road. We were met by their Municipal Tourism Officer who gave us the permits for Ursula Island, (the island is a Protected Sanctuary and one needs a special permit to go there). Then we proceeded with the last leg of our journey, to Bgy Rio Tuba, a mining community. We checked in to a small lodging house with the longest key chain I have ever seen:

And it seems, they celebrate Christmas the whole year... (the rooms had names, ours was Danny).

After putting down our stuff, Luis promptly lied down and went to sleep.  I did some exploring and ended up in a small eatery where I ordered Halo-halo.

The following morning, we checked out after breakfast and proceeded to the wharf.  It turned out that our boat was the PNP Maritime speedboat, complete with uniformed and armed (with automatic rifles!). 

The seas were a bit rough and pretty soon we were all wet (except for those who stayed inside the cabin.  However, because we were on a speedboat, the normal two-hour trip took only one hour.  And as soon as we set foot on the island, we were greeted by a friendly White-bellied Sea Eagle. 

White-bellied Sea Eagle

After getting our fill with the Eagle, we set off into the forest for our first attempt to see our target birds - the Nicobar Pigeon and Grey Imperial Pigeon.  Both would be lifers for me.  I noticed that there were plenty of big and tall trees, including several Balete trees. 

Several minutes into our hike, the skies darkened and it drizzled a bit.  Two of our companions decided to go back to the camp.  We continued on but I already wrapped both my camera and backpack in their respective rain covers.   But the rain did not continue.  Both Rommel and the local guide said they could hear (or maybe sense), the Nicobars but I couldn't see (or hear) anything.  And I was busy trying not to step or brush into some thorny bushes (there were a lot).  I cannot recall anymore how many minutes we walked but Rommel pointed to a distant tree and it was there, my main target bird, the Nicobar Pigeon... a lifer... but it was quite far and difficult to handheld get a shot through a gap in the leaves (especially when one is breathing heavily from traipsing through the forest.  Actually, I am just out of shape. As my wife and doctor often reminds me. hehehe).  Fortunately, I had a tripod along so I was able to manage a docu shot.

My first view of a Nicobar Pigeon in the wild.  

It was already around midday so we made our way back to the beach and to our camp for lunch.  Along the way, we saw a lone Grey-tailed Tattler on on of the rocks.  And the White-bellied Sea Eagle kept flying about. 

After a sumptuous lunch, most of our companions, including Luis, took a nap but I decided to take more photos of the Eagle. 

I also took the opportunity to take some photos of the strong waves that kept pounding the western side of the island the whole day.

At around three o-clock, we set out again to look for the Nicobars.  Rommel went with the other birders, while I was paired with the local park ranger, whose name escapes me now.  It did take very long and I had my second view of the Nicobar, still from high up, but a bit more open.   

A slightly better shot of the Nicobar Pigeon.  

Another shot of this very elusive and skittish bird.

As we were walking, we came upon a very tall tree, perhaps twenty meters high (maybe more) and saw four Nicobar Pigeons perched but no clear shots.  Then a Grey Imperial Pigeon, perched in one of the branches almost directly overhead.  But it did not stay long.  I did manage one docu shot.  

Grey Imperial Pigeon, another lifer

Soon, it was time to go back to camp and wait for the Pied Imperial Pigeons.  Ursula is a roosting site for these birds.  Every morning, at sunrise, they fly to the mainland to look for food.  At sunset, they all fly back to the island.  Rommel instructed us to set up and wait on the beach facing west (the mainland).  While waiting, the White-bellied Sea Eagle kept putting on a show.

After about twenty minutes, the first wave of birds started to arrive.  What followed was a spectacle that I am glad I got to experience with one of my children.  Wave upon wave of birds, hundreds, maybe even more than a thousand in all, flying towards Ursula Island.  

Pied Imperial Pigeons

I have seen some photos and heard stories, but nothing really prepares you for the experience.  Perhaps, I was too excited, or perhaps my camera settings were not correct, or perhaps, I should have had my camera and lens cleaned before going to Ursula.  Whatever it is,  I feel that my photos do not do justice to the actual experience.  I hope I get a chance to photograph these birds again...  

The following morning, before we left the island, Luis and I took the obligatory selfie. It was a special weekend for me made more meaningful with the presence of Luis.  

With my son Luis

Our last look of Ursula Island

Hope to see you again Ursula!  There is some special feeling knowing that you are on a remote island at the edge of one's country...  Lawak Island on the Spratly's chain would be nice too...