The Chiwit Chronicles: Chasing Lifers: At the Land of the Rising Sun

Japan's rich culture, history, traditions, and people have always fascinated me. Its advances in industry and technology - the train system that runs on schedule (almost to the minute!), the infrastructure, the gadgets, the cameras (!), are simply amazing. And did I mention that I love the food? So when Lorna and I thought of our first overseas family vacation, the choice of Japan was a no brainer.

We were going to enter Japan via Tokyo and then travel via Shinkansen to Takayama, "a city in the mountainous Hida region of Gifu Prefecture. To differentiate it from other places named Takayama, the city is also commonly referred to as Hida-Takayama. Takayama retains a traditional touch like few other Japanese cities, especially in its beautifully preserved old town." (source: Takayama Travel Guide).

Takayama is a four-hour, two-leg, train journey from Tokyo (via Nagoya). We arrived a little before 4pm, and after settling down in our hotel, and resting a bit, we set out to do some exploring and finding a place to eat.

The view from our hotel room window

Our first stop was the tourism office where a nice and respectful lady gaves us city maps and tips on where to go for food and shopping. I asked about birding spots but she was at a loss. She did show me where the park was.

After leaving the tourist info office, we looked for dinner. We chose a small ramen place on a small street and before long we were feasting on steaming bowls of tasty ramen with strips of Hida beef that melts in your mouth.

Tasty ramen with strips of Hida beef

Afterwards, we strolled back to our hotel, enjoying the cold air. Early the following morning, I set out to do some birding. Following the map given by the Tourism office, I walked for about twenty five minutes before reaching my destination. The Shiroyama Park. Japan is so tourist friendly. Maps like this one are found in every block.

Along the way, I saw my first bird in Japan. What else, but a Eurasian Tree Sparrow!

"Japanese" Eurasian Tree Sparrow

It was still a bit dark when I reached the park and there did not seem to be many birds around. But the fall foliage was beautiful to look at.

As I was catching my breath, a bird darted to a bush. I slowly made my way closer, but it flew before I could get a good shot. Then I saw small flock (which turned out to be the same bird), near a shed. It was difficult to get a decent shot because it was still a bit dark under the trees and the birds were perpetually moving. I was able to get one decent docu-shot. Varied Tit, (as identified by Robert Hutchinson), my first lifer in Japan.

Varied Tit, Japan Lifer # 1

I walked closer to the trees, and continued to admire the fall foliage, wishing that Lorna were with me because she was really looking forward to this.

And as if I needed a reminder that I was in Japan, there was a small Shrine within the park.

Several noisy birds arrived and I had my second Japan Lifer... Chestnut-eared Bulbul, also called Brown-eared Bulbul (again, thanks to Rob Hutchinson for the ID).

Chestnut or Brown-eared Bulbul

Soon it was time for me to head back to our hotel because breakfast was only until 9am (and I had a half-hour walk back). Along the route, I came upon a Large-billed Crow scavenging near some garbage bins.

Large-billed Crow

After breakfast, Lorna wanted to visit the morning market. There are two held everyday - the Miyagawa morning market and the Takayama morning market. I passed the latter while birding and it was not very impressive. So we went to Miyagawa which is older and bigger. I brought along my birding gear, just in case we see a bird along the way. And my effort paid off! The market was located beside the Miyagawa River (which cuts across the city) and there were wild ducks swimming in it. I excused myself from Lorna and quickly made my way down to the river side.

The first duck that caught my attention was a this lone handsome creature with a luminous dark green head - Mallard Duck, Japan lifer # 3.

Mallard Duck

At first, I thought the other ducks were the female of the species but I was happy to find out later that they were a different species - Eastern Spot-billed Duck (also known as Chinese Spot-billed Duck), Japan lifer #4!

May tatlong bibe akong nakita...

Eastern (or Chinese) Spot-billed Duck

I found it amazing that wild ducks were freely swimming in a clean river in the middle of a tourist city. And people - Japanese and foreigners were taking photos and feeding the ducks... all I could think of was... SANA GANITO DIN SA PILIPINAS!!!

While taking a break from photographing the ducks, I stood up and cracked my neck (to work out some kinks) and happened to glance up and saw this raptor majestically perched on one rooftop! Black Kite, juvenile, not really a lifer because I have seen this bird in Penang but a Japan lifer nonetheless. And I did not have decent photos in Penang.

Black Kite, juvenile

We toured Shirakawa-go after visiting the market. I brought along my camera but unfortunately, I did not see any birds. I did get one of my dream shots for this trip.

Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO heritage site

When we got back to Takayama, we had dinner at a small restaurant near the Miyagawa market. Of course, we had Hida Beef and Takayama Ramen...to die for...or as we say in Cuyonon, Sabor!

Grilled Hida Beef

Takayama Ramen

The following morning, I decided to forego the hotel breakfast so I could have more time to explore and bird. Instead of heading back to the Shiroyama Park, I headed for Sannomachi street, a part of Takayama where the old houses have been preserved. Some of these were built back in the Edo Period (1600-1868). Going early allowed me to see this historic street free of people. Here are some photos taken with my phone.

Sannomachi street, Takayama

I made my way back to the Miyagawa River and I was happy to see that the ducks were still there. This time there was more than one Mallard!

May tatlong bibe ulit!

Di lang tatlo, apat pa!

The Eastern Spot-billed Ducks were also there but some were still asleep or "at rest".

A smallish white bird appeared on the rocks and I snapped several shots. I assumed it was a White Wagtail, which is not a lifer anymore, having seen said bird in Coron. However, two days later, while browsing Japan birds online, I came across a Japanese Wagtail so I sent my photos to Rob Hutchinson who confirmed that it is a Japanese Wagtail, Japan Lifer #5.

Japanese Wagtail, Japan Lifer #5

I was scanning the rooftops for the Black Kite again and it did not disappoint. In fact he even brought two friends along! There were three of them in different perches along the river!