The Tubbataha Expedition: Cavili, Calusa, and Cagayancillo

Cavili (or Cawili)

After our brief sojourn at the South Atoll, the ship sailed for Cavili (or Cawili) Island, one of Cagayancillo's island barangays.  When I woke up early the following morning, this is what I saw from my cabin window.

Cavili Island

By agreement the night before, Martin had requested to be brought to the island much earlier so he could do some exploring.  After a quick breakfast, we were off.  I already had plenty of shots of the Brown Boobies, Brown Noddies, and Crested Terns at the North Atoll.  I was hoping for the Black Noddies and Red-footed Boobies at the South Atoll but the ongoing construction prevented that.  So for this day, I was hoping for these but Rommel told me that Black Noddies were not expected in these islands.  On the other hand, Frigate Birds were expected at Cavili so the hope for a Christmas Island Frigate Bird was still alive.

Upon landing, we immediately saw that the trees along the beach were dotted, with many white birds which turned out to be Red-footed Boobies!  And as we neared the trees, there were other birds as well - a few juvenile Brown Boobies and Frigate Birds.  

Red-footed Boobies

Greater Frigate Bird

Greater Frigate Bird

Red-footed Booby unloading in mid-air

Red-footed Booby

Red-footed Booby

Greater Frigate Bird, juvenile

A nesting Red-footed Booby

Red-footed Booby

Red-footed Booby

Four Frigate Birds in one frame

Aside from the Frigate Birds and Boobies, there were not many other birds in the island.  We ended up in the barrio of Cavili.  Strangely all the signs in the buildings said Bgy Cawili. But Rommel kept referring to the island as Cavili saying Cavili and Cawili were one and the same.  Anyway, the village reminded be of some of our barrios in Coron.

We took this opportunity to take a group photo (minus Martin, who was somewhere ahead of us).

While we were at this plaza, two young girls passed by selling buche (or was it maruya?), in any case I was so hungry that I bought some.  Soon everybody was buying.  For the foreigners in the group, it was the first time they tasted this Pinoy delicacy.  I wanted to buy Coke to go with it but the village had no ice so I decided against it (I was not even sure if they had Coke).  Anyway, we headed back to the beach and boarded the speedboat back to Narayana.  The ship pulled anchor while we were having lunch and was soon headed to Calusa Island. I managed a quick nap before I was woken up to say that we were leaving for Calusa Island.  

Calusa

We did not really see much birds at Calusa.  There was a distant Grey Imperial Pigeon which is quite a rare bird, though it was not a lifer for me as I had already seen it at Ursula Island a year ago (also from afar).    

The view from Calusa.  That's our ship, the MY Narayana in the distance.

 Cagayancillo town

We sailed again during the night and when we woke up, we were anchored off the town of Cagayancillo.  Birding wise, we had one target here - the so-called Cagayancillo White Eye which is actually a sub-species of a Yellowish White Eye found only in Cagayancillo.  This is the richmondi sub-species which may (or may not) be declared a separate species in the coming years. We boarded the speedboat for a twenty-five minute ride to town. Cagayancillo reminded me of Coron in the mid-70's - small narrow pier, few vehicles, few people, quiet town where everybody knew everybody else (how I miss that Coron).

Cagayancillo pantalan area

Upon disembarking, we immediately saw a tree filled with a flock of Grey-imperial Pigeons.  But it was quite far to get a good shot.  But to see this many Grey Imperial Pigeons in one tree was a delight.

There were no tricycles to be found.  And the one or two that passed us were loaded with cargoes and people from the newly arrived ''Batil" (wooden boat).  So we walked the narrow streets until we reached an area with trees.  There we found the Yellowish White-eye but it was forever moving so no good shots.  I realized that we were now close to the tree with the Grey Imperial Pigeons.  We found the tree but it was back-lit and most of the birds have left, except for two.  Sharing a closer but somewhat docu shot of this pair.

Grey Imperial Pigeons

One of the tricycles that we previously flagged returned and half of the group went with it leaving Rommel, Alan and me.  We decided to just follow the road leading out of the town in search of our target.  Several minutes later, our efforts paid off...

Yellowish White-eye, Zosterops nigrorum, richmondi ssp.

Though not considered a lifer since it is after all a Yellowish White-eye, (which I have seen elsewhere), the fact that this sub-species is found only on this tiny island in the middle of Sulu Sea, is pretty amazing.

By pre-arrangement, we took our lunch at the Cagayancillo wharf  and was back at Narayana early afternoon.  That night we had our final dinner aboard the ship as we sailed for Puerto Princessa.  

Puerto Princessa Bay

Our ETA at PPC was noontime so after breakfast, we spent time on deck watching for far off birds - mostly terns.  I was secretly hoping to see dolphins.   Fortunately, just as we were about to enter Puerto Princessa Bay, my prayers were answered.   I was told that these photos show Fraser's Dolphins. 

Fraser's Dolphin

Before long, we were docking at the Puerto Princessa port and saying our goodbyes.  I was dropped at the airport for my 4pm flight back to Manila.  It was almost 8pm when I reached our home in Quezon City and the first thing I did was to take a long shower and enjoyed the right temperature and pressure! (the shower at Narayana was often too hot).

Final Notes...

Tubbataha for me, is a special and magical place.  I enjoyed my trip immensely.  I am glad I did it and I have no regrets whatsoever.  Well, there is one, I wanted to experience it with my son Luis, but it was not possible (pretty sure the rest of my family wouldn't have enjoyed it).   However, I do not think it is for everybody.   Long boat trip, spartan conditions, no cell signal, less than ideal shooting conditions, cost, length of the trip, low number of species (as compared to other birding sites), are reasons that come to mind.  But as I said, for me, it was pure bliss...

For those who wish to bird at Tubbataha, please get in touch with Rommel Cruz at Wild Expeditions Palawan at https://www.facebook.com/wildexpeditionspalawan/

Indigo, check!

I first became aware of this bird almost seven years ago when it became THE target bird La Mesa Eco Park together with the Spotted Wood Kingfisher.  These two birds dominated the Manila birding world in September and October 2013.  Even foreign birders came to visit.  And it was also a source of a big social media war - Facebook and Yahoo Groups (yes, it was still being used then), - between bird photographers (mainly WBPP) and other birders who held other views (this was my introduction to this difference of opinion). 

I only saw the Indigo-banded once during that time and while I was happy at capturing a lifer, I was not so happy with my shots.  I saw it again at Bangkong Kahoy in May 2014 and was able to get better shots.  When DRT and Avilon Zoo, came into our consciousness, many birders also got great shots there but not me.  So when I saw a post three weeks ago of an IBKF taken at LMEP, I immediately messaged the poster, Ralf Nabong, a good friend, and asked where he got it.  

On the day that we both shot the White's Thrush, Bong left the mini forest a few minutes ahead.  As I passed the area of the "Gods" on my way out,  I saw him waving at me and pointed the IBKF perch, saying that he heard it a few minutes earlier.  I was already running late so I was not able to stay.  But I made a mental note to come back for it when I had the time.  My chance came a week later.  I arrived at the site a little before 8am and found Prof Ferdie Llanes and Fidel Sy already seated with cameras mounted on tripods and pointed at the usual perch. Within ten minutes of setting up my gear, our target bird arrives and the sound of shutters clicking filled the (still) quiet air.  

Sharing two of the images I was able to create (one without a teleconverter, one with a 1.4x tc). 

Indigo-banded Kingfisher, female

Indigo-banded Kingfisher, big check!  Now where can I photograph the male?

  

Final Shot at Whitey

After three trips to La Mesa Ecopark to shoot the White's Thrush, I was still hot happy with my shots, especially after seeing much nicer photos of said bird perched on a palm tree eating its berries.  When I saw Nes Santiago post his beautiful photos I decided to give it another try.  Ever the gentleman birder, Sir Nes, as we fondly call him, provided me with a detailed direction that will put Google Maps and Waze to shame.  My son and I were scheduled to leave for UST at 6am, travel time 45 mins to one hour, so ETA uste at 7am. Then travel time to LMEP from Uste should be 30-45 mins considering I was going against the traffic. So I thought I will be at LMEP before 8am.  Well, as they say, the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry... we both woke up a bit later than usual, which meant we left the house almost 7am, traffic was heavier, etc etc.  I finally reached LMEP around 8:45am, gather my gear together, walk to the mini forest, follow the directions of Sir Nes.  I finally reached the appointed palm tree by 9:00am, and like an X on a treasure map, my target bird was there.  Set the tripod on the ground, point the camera, fire away... 

I had a one hour photo session with this bird who went about its business without minding me.  A far cry from the very skittish bird in January. At one point, several students passed by and stopped for a chat.  I pointed the bird to them and give a short explanation that this was a rare migrant.  After the usual ooohs and aaahs, one of them asked permission to take a cellphone photo of my LCD screen.  

Resident LMEP bird master Prof Ferdie Llanes and good friend Bong Nabong also joined me in the photo session.  We also met Doc Mylene A. Santos, a self confessed newbie birder.  She had a Nikon DSLR wither her took our photos while we were shooting. 

 

Bong suggested to Mylene to attach her camera to either my lens or Prof Ferdie's (we both use Nikon also), and got the surprise of our lives that her camera was a D850!  I quickly detached my camera body and attached her D850 (my dream camera at the moment), to my lens, did a couple of adjustments and fired several shots. And reluctantly returned the camera to Mylene :-). 

Before leaving the Ecopark, I swung by the other palm tree where the Black-chinned Fruit Dove was holding court.  I fired some shots but the lighting was not so good.  Besides we have this bird also in Coron.  I left LMEP a little before 11am , happy and satisfied with my shots of Whitey (finally!).   

 

Another shot at Whitey...

A birder guest of mine once said that bird photographers are the among the most greedy in the world.  First they want a shot, any shot. Then a better one, then a full body, then a full frame of full body in good light in a good perch, etc.  Of course the ultimate would be a frameable and exhibit quality shot. This was said in jest of course but there is a certain grain of truth in it. We all want a better shot. So while I was happy that I was able to photograph the White's Thrush last January 10, I wanted a better one especially since this bird is a rather rare migrant.

I went back to LMEP late afternoon of January 18 but I did not even see the bird. Actually, I did not even see any bird. Hence...

When there are no birds, we make do with whatever Nature presents...

Finding a hole in my schedule yesterday, I decided to try my luck again. I arrived at the park around 1:30pm and met several birders while walking to the mini forest.  We greeted each other with a nod and a smile (I didn't know who they were).  I asked "quota na ba?" (meaning if they already got the White's Thrush).  They answered that it was a no show (oh no!).  And added that Djop (Tabaranza) was still there. I met him near the old stables as he was on his way out. We chatted a bit, he pointed out the fruiting palms and said that he saw the White's Thrush twice but no photos.  I set up my tripod near the fruiting palms and waited.  Waiting is never really my strong suit so after about twenty minutes, I decided to walk a bit and check the area near the "hollow blocks" where we saw the it last January 10.  I was a few meters away from the tip of the "rotunda which is actually a triangle" when I saw a slight movement on the ground on my right... and there he was... set down my tripod, fire a burst, wrong setting (aaargghh!!!), adjust settings (while imploring the birding gods that it does not go away), fire again... bird turns and walks a few steps, fumble at tripod knobs to re-aim, shoot again, bird turns and runs as muggles (non-birders), walk by. I strain my eyes looking at the dark forest floor hoping that it will come back for another round.  But it never did.  Sharing two decent photos...

White's Thrush

When I set out for La Mesa, my goal was to get a full body shot of the White's Thrush, which I accomplished but now I wish that that green blob (which is actually an out of focus leaf) is not there.  Remember what I said about bird photographers being greedy?

I waited for the White's Thrush to show up again and while waiting, LMEP's resident Ashy Ground Thrush entertained me... Thank you Lord for this beautiful and friendly bird...

Ashy Ground Thrush in its signature one-legged pose

I went back to the fruiting palm to see if the White's Thrush or the Brown-headed Thrush will show up but they did not.  Prof Ferdie Llanes joined me around four thirty. I left a little before five, happy that I was able to bird and get my target, (even with the green blob!). It was a good way to end a stressful week.  Thank you Lord for the opportunity. 

Requiescat en Pace

Several days ago, Luis, my son told me that there was a bird's nest in the plant beside our veranda stairs leading to our gate.  He heard some chirping while passing and decided to investigate.  I looked and saw that indeed there was a nest.  I warned Luis not to get too near because the parent birds might abandon it if they feel it is compromised.  So we observed from a safe distance.  Of course I took a photo. It was a challenge because the nest was concealed inside the plant and the leaves prevented a clear view.  Still I was able to get a few shots.

Yellow-vented Bulbul

Over the next few days, we observed adult birds going to and from the nest bringing food.  On a couple of occasions I heard chirping of the chicks and saw movement of at least two heads.  Often, the adult birds would perch on our fence before proceeding to the nest or after coming from the nest. We - Luis, Leon, Lorna, and I, were all happy about the birds and the chicks.  We would check on it from time to time - but always from a distance so as not to spook them. 

Adult YVB on our wrought iron fence.

One time I saw a cat (one of the stray cats that come and go), near the plant box. I knew its intentions so I chased it away.  Lorna even asked me to remove my car cover and a box that were at the base of the plant because they provided easy access to the cat.  

Just before noon today, I went to check the nest and it appeared damaged and immediately I looked for traces of blood.  

Damaged nest

At first I did not find any blood but after a second look, I found this at the base of the plant... and the adult birds are nowhere to be found.  Not sure if they were also killed and eaten or just left because there was no more reason to stay. 

Top part of the nest plus a bloody chick

The boys reviewed our CCTV and a white cat did attack the nest at approximately 5:50am this morning.  

Needless to say, we all feel bad about it, especially Lorna. It was just a Yellow-vented Bulbul, one of the most common birds in the country.  We do not even take a photo of it (along with the Maya and the Losyang) unless there are no other birds to shoot. One can even argue that its part of the circle of life or the food chain.  Yet its death has saddened us.  I can only wish that the parents build another nest at a safer place and lay more eggs and hatch new chicks that will successfully fledge. As to the cat... am open to suggestions... kidding...

First Lifer for the new decade

In birding parlance, the term "Lifer" refers to the first time a birder has seen and positively identified a particular species.  Some bird photographers I know will not consider it a lifer unless he/she was able to get a good photograph of the bird. Personally, if I see a bird clearly, even if I do not have a photo, I list it down as a lifer, albeit reluctantly.  I am happy if I get a decent shot.  I am truly happy, ecstatic really, if I get a frame-able shot of a lifer (or any bird for that matter, the rarer, the better).  Thus any mention of a would be lifer always gets my attention. 

The first such bird for 2020 is the White's Thrush at La Mesa Ecopark which Rey Ibay spotted (and photographed on January 5th followed by Delio Tolosa on the 6th. I dipped on this bird in 2017 and there were no reported sightings at LMEP in the next two years.  Who knows when it will come again. 

Finding a hole in my schedule was quite a challenge but I managed to go on January 8th, only to come up empty.  The bird showed up twice but only briefly. I did not even see it the first time and caught just a glimpse on the second. To make things worse, the bird showed up after I left and those who stayed behind were able to get good photos. 

Not wanting to give up on a potential lifer, I decided to go back on the 10th of January. By this time, White's Fever has caught on as there were almost twenty birders at LMEP that day.  I arrived with Raymond Dan at around 6:30am, and we waited and waited and waited.... 

At around 9:00am, I saw Prof Ferdie Llanes, Patty Adversario and Patty's friend (whose name escapes me at the moment), bunched together, squatting and kneeling on the ground.  I quietly made my way until I was behind them and true enough they were looking at the White's Thrush.  It took me a few seconds before I could see the exact spot and by the time I could point my camera, the bird flitted to another perch.  Fired a two shots but got only the body, bird jumped again, aim between two saplings, got it! Docu shot but I will take it.

White's Thrush, first lifer for the new decade

The next two and a half hours was spent waiting for the bird to make another appearance.  However, it kept to the bushes.  We would see it move but it never came out in the open perhaps because there were too many birders - there were 17 Pinoys and a group of 6 foreigners plus their tour leader.  Later another group of foreign birders also arrived.  

Fortunately, LMEP's resident star bird kept us entertained part of the time...

Ashy Ground Thrush

By 11:30am, we decided to break for lunch which we partook at the house of Prof Ferdie. Our lunch group was composed of WBPP President Win Paler, Ed Santos, Jonn Salvador and Prof Ferdie.  Later, we were joined by Raymond Dan and Conrad Olayres.  After the sumptuous lunch, washed down by beer, and the usual WBPP banter, Ed, Jonn, Raymond and I decided to call it a day.  Wins and Ferdie went back to the Park.

Needless to say, I went home happy with my lifer.  Do I go back for a chance to be "truly happy"? Hmmm...  

The 5th PPUR International Bird Race Day 2: A day that will live in infamy

Though the scores of Day 1 were not posted early, we felt we did good enough so we started Day 2 full of hope, enthusiasm and purpose.  After a quick breakfast, we hurriedly shot the Cockatoos, Starlings and ETS at the resort grounds, boarded the van, got the owl, and proceeded to Badjao.  We got the Zebra Dove, and a couple of other birds along the way.

For this day, we had an additional marshal who looked familiar.  He introduced himself as Ian and said that we had already met in Coron.  Then I remembered that he attended a Birding 101 training that I gave in 2016.  

We did not wait long at Badjao Seafront grounds before we got our main targets there. The Copper-throated Sunbird and the Pale Spider Hunter appeared after only twenty minutes of waiting.

Copper-throated Sunbird, male

Pale Spider Hunter

There were also other teams at the Badjao parking area including Team Bird Finder.  But I noticed that the "Hellos" were even more hurried than the previous day and no one was pointing birds to other teams (hahaha).  I guess because it was the equivalent of the 4th Quarter in basketball, winning time as they say.  Once we got both targets, we again hurriedly boarded the van and proceeded to the house of bird guide Randy Tibor (who was assigned to Team 211 - hope I got the name right).  We were told that Randy's backyard was visited by birds. 

Just a few minutes after leaving Badjao, somebody (I could not recall anymore who), blurted, may ibon po ! The van jerked to a sudden stop and the bird was there on a bush beside the road.  It was so near that Loel's 600mm and my 500mm could not acquire focus! Olan, who was sitting on the other side of the van was not even able to aim because the bird flew away, only to return a few seconds later and perch on another bush a little further which fortunately was within out minimum focusing distance. 

Brown-throated Sunbird

After a few clicks, we were off again.  We saw a some Scaly-breasted Munias and a Collared Kingfisher along the way.  But before long we were at Randy Tibor's house where we saw about four other teams.  Within minutes, the birds were already there so we did our clicks and exchanged a few jokes with other teams.  But as with the scene at Badjao, everybody seemed more serious.  During the short minutes that we were at the Tibor house, one of the other teams congratulated us for being ''one of the leaders".  Hmmm.... 

Palawan Flowerpecker, female

Palawan Flowerpecker, male

Brown-throated Sunbird, female

As soon as all three of us got the necessary photos, we rushed back to our van which was parked about a hundred meters away.  We met another team on the road who said we were on the top five!  Our hearts beat a little faster...

We hurried to the Croc Farm to get the Peacock Pheasant, and whatever other birds we could find there. And of course, we birded along the way.  

Common Kingfisher

White-breasted Wood Swallows

When we got to the Croc Farm, the first bird we photographed was the Blue Paradise Flycatcher.  Then we proceeded to look for the Pheasant.

Blue Paradise Flycatcher, female

Sure enough, we found him in the same area as the previous day.  But unlike the previous day, we did not really stop to take plenty of photos. 

Palawan Peacock Pheasant

On our way out, we were able to two more endemics, the Ashy-fronted Bulbul and the Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, as well as a Little Heron.

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha

From the Croc Farm, we decided to proceed to Irawan to take a photo of the Blue-eared Kingfisher and the Palawan Flycatcher, (and whatever other birds we could see).  First was a Grey Wagtail along the river.  Next was a male Purple-throated Sunbird just as we disembarked from our van. We met one team along the trail who said we were Top 3 (!!!), which we actually did not believe.  Still, it gave us hope that we were indeed among the leaders and pumped us even more.

Purple-throated Sunbird, male

Palawan Flycatcher

Blue-eared Kingfisher, male

After getting the Blue-eared Kingfisher, Loel called us and pointed another bird, a Black-naped Monarch.

Black-naped Monarch

Then one of the caretakers in the area asked if we wanted a photo of a Stork-billed Kingfisher.  We all readily said yes and followed the guy.  This is one of my favorite birds and I was really hoping to get a good photo of it. Within a few minutes it was there in front of us and we all fired away.

Stork-billed Kingfisher

After getting our fill with this bird, we all walked away smiling, talking animatedly, and planning our next move... until tragedy struck.  We were trudging on the stone path, I had my camera attached to my tripod and was carrying my tripod on my shoulders.  I usually hook my black rapid strap on the bottom of the camera but this one time, I did not. Perhaps it was due to the excitement of getting great photos of one of my personal targets, or maybe I was tired, or whatever, I just heard a thud, and when I turned my camera and lens were on the stone path...apart from each other... I was stunned, and felt numbed.  I think it was Loel who picked it up and handed it to me.  I guess we were all stunned - birders, marshals, and caretakers alike, because we all stood around talking but not really doing anything for maybe almost thirty minutes.  Then I urged Loel and Olan to continue shooting and they reluctantly walked back to the spot near Blue-eared Kingfisher area and Loel started playing bird calls.  I sat in the waiting area, camera and lens on the bamboo table, hating myself for being careless (in not hooking the camera to the strap).  After several minutes of moping, I decided to message Atty Carlo Gomez and Mike Mendoza, explained my situation and ask if I could borrow their camera gear (since they were not competing in the race).  When there was no immediate answer, I decided to take the van and go back to the city. I also texted Puerto Princessa based photographer friends Rommel Cruz and Den Wakefield, if I could borrow their cameras but both were out of town.   

As I was boarding the van, Atty Carlo replied that his gear was at home (he was at the resort), that maybe I could borrow from the demo units of Sony. But I guess it was not meant to be. As the van was making the ascent on one of the roads leading out of Irawan, we got stuck in the soft clayish soil of Palawan which the rains softened the night before.  The driver tried several times but we just could not proceed, most likely because the van was too light (there were only two of us in it).  With no other options, we backed up (carefully), and made our way back to where the rest of the team was.

After some discussion, we decided to leave the area.  We were worried that we might get stick again but fortunately, due to the heavier weight, the wheels gained enough traction and we were able to get through.  We met one team along the road shooting at something.  We all went down and it turned out to be a Rufous-backed Kingfisher.  We all got it with me using my cellphone.  Team Culion was still trying to compete.

We stopped in one area and played the call of the Melodious Tree Babbler, another Palawan endemic.  The bird responded but Olan and I were not able to get it.  After a few more minutes, we decided to head over to the old zigzag road.  We were already on the way when Mike replied that I could borrow his camera and lens but considering our location and looking at the remaining time before the race ended at 1pm, we decided to just proceed with our itinerary.  As it turned out the Rufous-backed Kingfisher was our last bird for the day.

Epilogue: One of our sister teams, Team Bird Finder finished 3rd overall. As for Team Culion, it turned out that we placed 8th on Day 1 which was a pleasant surprise. However, the bigger surprise was finding out at the farewell dinner that our final place was also 8th with only 17 points separating us from he 7th placer.